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How Trees Can Damage your Roof

December 3, 2020 by Infinite Roofing 1 Comment

Oftentimes when buying a new home people prefer a yard with lots of mature trees because they are beautiful and add curb appeal. Having trees can offer blooming flowers and can supply shade, however they come at a cost. In many ways trees can reduce the lifespan of your roof unless you take proper steps to prevent it. With annual tree management you can prevent almost all damage that can be caused by intruding trees. 

Trees surrounding your property aren’t always bad and there are many reasons to keep them around. Under the right circumstances trees can offer shingle protection and many other benefits.

Blocking the wind: Large trees that are taller than your home’s roof can block wind, which reduces the effect on your home and shingles, especially when a big storm hits. 

Providing UV protection: Mature trees provide lots of shade which aids in protection from harmful UV rays from the sun. Over time UV rays slowly age your asphalt shingles along with other roofing materials. 

Controlling summer temperatures: In the summer months shade from your trees helps reduce heat on your roof and also inside your home. Shingles absorb a lot of heat from the sun and can soak it up back into your home, making your AC bill much higher. 

While there are many benefits for having some foliage around your home, there are also many ways in which trees can damage your homes roof. 

The most obvious way that a tree can cause more harm than good would be when trees fall from either old age or a storm, onto your roof.  

Branches falling from trees can also damage and scratch shingles on the roof of your home, and even hit windows creating a problem. Branches can be blown off from a strong storm and find their way on your home’s roof. If the branches are larger in size that can add unnecessary weight causing dents or even holes. Most of this type of damage usually takes place in the winter time as snow and ice creates more weight on the trees, causing branches to fall.

If you don’t hire an arborist to prune the trees in your yard, you can get on a ladder and do it yourself to prevent branches that hang over your roof. If you let the low hanging branches get out of hand they will rub against the roof scratching away the granules which is the protective layer on shingles. If this has happened to your roof, be sure to call your local roofing contractor to assess the damage. 

Certain types of trees drop their needles and leaves each fall and make a big mess on your roof and in your yard. These debris if not properly taken care of can clog your gutters which will make rain water pool on the roof causing damaging leaks. Leaves left on top of the roof absorb moisture from the air and rain that promotes mold, moss, and algae growth, reducing the lifespan of your shingles. Along with annual cleanups you can hire a local roofing contractor to install gutter guards to help prevent buildup of leaves and debris in your home’s gutters.

Having trees in your yard that offer some shade has its benefits but if your home is always shaded with little to no sunlight that can pose a problem because it will be difficult for your roof to dry off. If the roof is always wet this is obviously an issue that will cause mold, moss and algae growth. Along with many trees shading your property come with animals that inhabit these trees, some finding their way onto your roof and making a home. It is wise to cut back all branches that lead to your roof to eliminate debris and animals. 

How far should tree branches be from my house?

A good rule of thumb is to keep tree branches at least 6ft away from your home’s roof. If you are planting new trees you should start 20-30 feet away from your home to ensure the branches that eventually grow will not touch the roof. Be sure to check with your homeowners insurance policy to see if they have certain requirements about tree distance. Typically if you neglect maintaining your homes property and damage is caused by overgrown trees and debris it may not be covered by your policy. 

How to prevent roof damage from trees?

  1. Trim tree branches that are starting to look old that can be easily blown off and cause damage, or hire an arborist to remove and trim the trees surrounding your home. 
  2. It is important to prune young trees to control the growth, pruning regularly will allow for stronger branches and trunks which will be less likely to break off in a storm. 
  3. Clean up debris regularly from the roof and gutters as much as possible. If you have trees that drop debris not just in the fall, but all year it is important to keep up with the maintenance. 
  4. Be sure to cut down trees that are not stable, also check with your city first for bylaws/ Some species of trees are protected and are not allowed to be cute down. Some local areas even do not allow the removal of trees with a certain trunk diameter. 

What if my neighbor’s tree branches are touching my roof?

If you live in close proximity to your neighbors then you might have tree branches and debris that get too close to your home. The first thing you want to do is politely ask them if you can trim back their trees that fall on your property line. If you ask them to do it chances are they won’t, or they won’t be as thorough as you might be. If they refuse to do so you can turn to the city which will have bylaws in place to force your neighbor to deal with the overgrown tree issue. These laws vary by location so you can look them up and seek legal action if you choose. Even though you may have branches and debris on your property, the tree itself is on your neighbors property and you legally cannot trim it without permission. 

What if my neighbor’s tree has fallen on my home?

Most Likely your insurance company will cover the damage depending on your policy. Be sure to let your insurance adjuster know that the tree that fell on your home was not on your property, so your deductible isn’t affected and your neighbor is held responsible for damages. In the off chance that your policy does not cover tree damage then you will end up paying for damages out of pocket. You can pursue legal action against your neighbor for the damages caused by their tree, but hopefully you can resolve issues without. Of course this can all be avoided by regularly pruning trees on your property and communicating with your neighbors about their trees before they get out of hand. 

When should I remove a tree?

You may be wondering how to know if a tree is ill or old and when to cut it down. Some things you should look for would be large cracks or splitting of tree trunks, and if illness has developed. You can visibly spot fungus that grows on trees, this will cause branches to die and easily be blown off creating potential damage. If you have trees with invasive roots they can pose an issue to your home’s foundation. Also look for peeling bark that is an indication a tree is infected, the shedding can be normal is there is new bark underneath. 










Filed Under: Metal Roofing, Roof, Roof Inspections, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roof Shingles, Roofing

Choosing the Right Roof for a Historic Home

November 17, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

Owning a historic home can be challenging to restore and maintain but preserving its beauty is worth it. If you are lucky enough to own a home in a historic district then you know that there are certain guidelines that you must follow to be sure all the details are correct. The roof is arguably the most important feature in any home because it protects everything beneath it. The roof keeps the structure of a historic home and all its features safe from the outside elements and water intrusion.

Historical homeowners main concern when preserving its features is water intrusion, as this will damage the home in ways that oftentimes cannot be fixed. Most of these older homes are made from less durable materials than homes that are built today, this means that water intrusion has a much larger impact. When preserving the roof as it was in the past, you can usually keep the home in good condition that is time-period appropriate with hard work. If you diligently conduct routine roof inspections, and work with qualified local roofing contractors from the best roofing company, who have mastered historical techniques it is very possible to keep your historical home intact. 

If you own a historic home chances are it is located in a historic district, and in these districts  there are guidelines that must be followed. We at Infinite Roofing have replaced many roofs on historic homes located in historic districts within Saratoga Springs and we must adhere to their guidelines. These rules and regulations are to keep important character defining features of the building in or as close to the original as possible. The shape of a roof, materials used, and its details all contribute to the historic character of the home. As a roofing contractor it is our job to research specific guidelines that a city implements to properly conduct the job. Saratoga Springs has supplied historic district design guidelines so you clearly know how to preserve the building. 

Oftentimes restoration experts decide to install a modern roof on a historic home, keeping all the details in place with the best interests of the property and budget. When working with the best roofing company they will agree that adding modern materials provides superior protection and much less maintenance costs, also adding a new roof will increase the homes value. Always check with the historical authority to make sure the materials you plan to use are approved, it is possible to use newer materials while still keeping the look of the past. Installing a more modern roof doesn’t ruin the architecture, in fact many newer materials can replicate older styles and details to match original materials. 

The first thing you should do is start researching your type of historic home’s roof, this can take several months, especially when you need approval from a historic authority. If you are experiencing major leaks or other issues you might need to temporarily path up the roof yourself in order to protect the home. If you have your local roofing contractor patch an area of your roof, make sure they are careful about how to patch it. You don’t want them removing evidence you might need later on, such as an old layer of roof under the current one. In this case it’s best to not opt for a DIY patch, using a roofer with restoration experience is recommended. 

Review Documents

If you have access to any documents pertaining to the house such as old pictures, journals, original blueprints, or newspaper clippings, review them for ideas on original materials and colors of the roof. This can be helpful to keep the integrity of the roof preserving details, an example of this would be if wooden shakes have been cut in unusual angles or shingles that were laid non-traditionally. It is important to take down any details to give to your local roofing contractor. 

Look at the Physical Evidence

Try to keep all previous materials such as old wood pieces, nails, and scraps that may be helpful to tell which type of roofing system was used. Your local roofing contractor may be able to tell what kind of roof was used and also which materials can be swapped out for optimal preservation. Choosing a roofer with previous knowledge and experience with restorations is crucial to have the best chances of replicating the home’s previous roof. 

Consulting with Historical Organizations

As stated previously if you own a historic home chances are that it is in a historic district, and within these districts there are rules and regulations that must be followed. You may have to face many restrictions about which changes you plan on implementing to your home’s roof. Some other restrictions include building codes but some areas will make expectations for historical homes. Even if you have to use traditional roofing materials that are available, oftentimes the use of modern underlayment can be used. This is because it better protects the roof from weather influences and is not visible or interfering with the outer appearance. 

Types of Historic Roofs

TimeStyleMaterials used
Pre-Revolution Georgian or FederalWood Shingles
18th CenturyFederal Style Wood shingles or Slate
19th CenturyItalianate, Greek, GothicMetal, Wood, Slate
20th CenturyBungalow, CraftsmanAsphalt shingles, Slate

Historic Roofing Materials

MaterialTime PeriodDetails
Wood ShakesAll periodsType of wood used was dependent on the area.
Clay tilesStarting at the 17th Century Primarily used where there was a Spanish influence. 
Slate18th CenturySeldomly used because of its price and difficulty to install.
Metal Roof19th Century There were several styles and materials used.
Shingles20th Century3 Tab asphalt shingles.

Wood Shakes/Shingles

This was the most common historical roofing material in the earliest days to the 19th century. The type of wood material used and techniques varied so if your home had wood shakes or shingles you will need to gather more information on how to replace it. Wood is the fastest roofing material to deteriorate so it must be treated in order for it to last. 

Clay Tile

This type of roofing material was mostly used in the colonial period where there was Spanish influence. When clay started to be used in the Northeast the tiles were flat compared to traditionally rounded tiles, this was due to English and French influence. Replicating the shape and colors of old clay tiles can be very challenging, if your home has clay tiles you might need to explore other materials.

Slate

Slate began being quarried in America starting in 1785, it was rare to see on many homes but it was available. Once the railroad was developed slate spread and made it much easier to transport the heavy slabs. Because of its limited availability and significant weight, slate was not a popular choice when comparing it to wood shakes/shingles. Although it has many benefits clay tiles are a much cheaper alternative. 

Metal

Metal was a popular roofing material but it was very expensive and at the time only lead and copper were suitable. This roofing material was more common on churches and government buildings rather than residential homes. In the 1870’s metal was cut from sheets and made into shingles, some had patterns and mainly used for gable roofs. Metal gained more popularity in the 1920’s also when asphalt became popular. 

Asphalt Shingles

This roofing material was introduced in the 1900’s but did not become widespread until the 1920’s, the look resembled our 3-tab shingles today. 

When restoring a historic home using substitute roofing materials has become more popular although some historical societies vote against it, others do agree protecting the home as a whole is more important. Modern materials provide a longer roof performance and keep the original structure intact. Seeking out alternative materials can also be very cost effective while keeping the same style of the original roof. Many more homeowners may choose to restore historical homes if the cost and hassle are reduced.








Filed Under: Roof Flashing, Roof Inspections, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roofing, Roofing Materials Tagged With: historic, roofing, victorian

How To Inspect a Roof

November 10, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

When it comes to doing maintenance around your home, the roof is easy to forget about. Doing a professional inspection once a year is recommended but you can easily inspect your roof on your own. Being aware of the condition of your roof will help you get the most out of it, by correcting any issues you see before more damage is done. The most common cause of water damage is from a leaky roof so it is important to be sure to properly inspect it at least once per year, and also after any major storms. We can easily help you identify things that may be problematic on your own, so you can then make a decision if a repair or full replacement is needed. Inspecting your roof has never been easier with these steps!

Thoroughly inspecting a roof

What happens during a roof inspection?

First step would be to walk around the exterior of your home, inspecting your roof from the ground to see what you can see at eye level. Inspecting your roof from the ground can still give you a good example of its condition if you don’t have a ladder or you’re afraid of heights. Look for signs of any damage, sagging, or ageing and take notes on what you think might be an issue to let your local roofing contractor know. While you are looking up at your roof, be sure to check out the flashing. Flashing is the main entry point for water and needs to be kept in good shape to work properly. Damaged flashing can cause immense damage under the surface of your roof. If you see damaged flashing a professional inspection may be necessary to be sure there are no underlying issues. 

If your home has skylights examine the inside where the seams meet your ceiling and also on the exterior, where the shingles meet the skylight. If you see old shingles around your skylights you may have water damage. Looking closely at soil stacks, if your home has one. This is important to check for any cracks and issues with the “stack boot,” and not to opt for a cheap version that will not last you. Installing a soil stack that won’t last you as long as your roof will only cause you bigger problems down the road.

Inspecting old skylights

 Inspecting your chimney is an area that you are able to check out without having to hop on top of your roof. Make sure to look around the perimeter of the chimney where water is directed away from your house, during heavy snow or rain, precipitation lands right at the chimney which can cause leaks or damage over time.

Inspection on a chimney

Look for moss, algae, or piles of leaves on your homes roof, these areas are notorious for costly leaks and water damage. Moss can severely damage the integrity of a roof because moss absorbs moisture and puts down roots causing degradation. These roots can lift shingles allowing constant moisture which can lead to mold and many other problems. Algae can adhere to the roof causing permanent stains and eventually damage underlying materials. If moisture seeps into the wood of your roof, it will cause rotting and compromise the strength of your roof. 

Over grown moss on a roof

As you are walking the perimeter of your home looking up at the roof, check to see if there are any curled or cracked shingles. Hot air from the attic often can cause shingles to curl away from the roof, putting you at risk for water damage and poor ventilation. Another important place to inspect is the attic, checking for rotted wood on the roof, and how well the insulation is holding up. If the insulation is poor there  might be excess wear on the roof where heat can leak through. During cold winter months your homes heat leaking out can create serious issues causing ice dams to form. This happens when snow melts on the roof and runs down freezing along the way.

Damaging ice dams

As you are looking at the condition of the shingles on your roof, also try to check for granule loss. Granules are the texture part of the shingles that feels slightly like sandpaper, these help deflect UV rays, make shingles fire resistant, and also makes packaging much easier. If you see loss of granules it may indicate your shingles have aged or been largely affected by severe weather. If you have a lot of granular loss then the shingles are no longer protecting your home from the elements, and you should consider calling your local roofing contractor for a professional inspection.  

Another area commonly overlooked by homeowners is the gutters. Cleaning out your gutters is so important because that is why most water damage is caused by being clogged. A gutter system can accumulate up to 300 pounds of water and debris each year. The best time to clean out your gutters is in late spring, this is the prime opportunity to remove the buildup that accumulates from blooming and lingering winter. Along with maintenance for your gutters, pressure washing them out along with your roof at least once per year is suggested.

When should you inspect a roof?

Inspecting your roof should be a year routine maintenance, like we have said previously it is a great idea to get a professional roofing inspection once per year, usually in the spring, but you should inspect your roof and exterior of your home every few months. If you always have your eye out for potential problems it is much eraser to address the issues before they get too big and expensive. 

You’ve completed inspecting your roof, now what?

After you have finished inspecting your roof with the help of these easy tips, review your findings. If you have found potential problems or concerns contact your local roofing contractor and make an appointment. Being proactive as a homeowner will save you a ton of money in the long run. As always when seeking out the best roofing company be sure to read reviews from their customers and look at pictures of their work.



Filed Under: Metal Roofing, Roof, Roof Coating, Roof Flashing, Roof Inspections, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roof Shingles, Roof Ventilation System, Roofing, Roofing Materials, Uncategorized Tagged With: roof inspection, roofing

Should My Roof Have Drip Edge, and What Color Should It Be?

September 24, 2020 by Infinite Roofing 1 Comment

What is the purpose of a drip edge on a roof?

Is a drip edge necessary? We have complied a guide for all your drip edge questions for shingle roofs. Drip edges are metal flashings that are installed around the edges of a roof to control the flow of water. These metal sheet are usually in the shape of an “L,” and direct water away from the fascia and into the gutters. Without its use, water would get under the shingles causing damage in numerous places of the roof. Your local roofing contractor will tell you that is is a requirement by most building codes in North America to help protect homes from damage. As we always suggest, look for the best roofing company in your area to ensure your roofing work is done properly. Not all work is created equal.

As we stated above the main key purpose of installing drip edge is to direct water away from the fascia. Water droplets stick to one another and to the surfaces they are on, it is designed to work with gravity allowing water to be forced into the gutters. Even if a home has no gutters, water will still be forced away and not collected down the fascia or soffit cavity. Without it water would stick to the shingles, working its way underneath and causing leaks.

Wind driven rain is a serious condition in which the wind forcefully pushes water all around the roof of a home. Each layer of the roofing system is designed to keep the moisture from harming the roof’s deck, which include the shingles, underlayment’s, and ice & water. Strong winds can easily push water upwards and the drip edge must compete to keep the water out. There should be about 2-4 inches of lower flange hanging off the edge of the roof to combat wind driven rain so the roof does not become compromised.

What To Do When You Experience Wind Driven Rain Roof Leak – Roofing  Contractor Sullivan IL – Central Roofing LLC

What type of materials are used?

Usually it is made from numerous types of materials such as plastics and metals, the metals must be corrosion resistant or galvanized.

Copper: Many people choose copper because of its aesthetics, it has a beautiful golden color that makes the roof pop.

Deciding on the Right Roofing - Modernize

Aluminum is a very common material used. Although it is not as strong as steel aluminum does not corrode and it is often made in many colors that match many homes.

Galvanized steel is another common material used. Galvanized steel is designed to work wither water and prevent rusting. The preferable type of steel is 24 gauge so it can withstand strong winds.

Plastic, vinyl and fiberglass can also be used but these are harder to find in some areas and are not the best suited.

Drip edge comes in three basic profiles, each profile can be called more than one name so it can be a bit confusing. The C type is in the classic L shape. This type of profile is bent in a 90 degree angle with a lower flange. Type D profile is in the shape of a T, this has a lower flange on the bottom. This type is often times called D-metal or the T style. F type is an extended version with a longer edge, this is used when installing a new over existing shingles and on the rake edges. This type is often called F style or the gutter apron.

The standard sizing of drip is sold in 10.5 foot lengths and also 8ft or sometimes smaller. The overhang length ranges from 2-5 inches, you may find other sizing in your local materials store, but smaller sizing is intended for windows and not a roof.

What color should roof it be?

If your homes trim and fascia are white your local roofing contractor will most likely recommend that the best choice is white so your home is seamless. If you have for instance gray shutters on your home and other pops of gray, then choosing a gray might look nice tying it all together. Choosing a color or any building material is personally preference.

Can you install it on existing roof?

It is most often replaced when a new roof is installed, but it is possible to replace the drip edge at any time. We would not recommend a local roofing contractor who suggests leaving the old drip edge. It is best to replace the it on an existing roof in the warmer months, shingles can become brittle in the cold and break.

Do you need to replace it when replacing the roof?

No you do not have to replace it but you should, the old drip edge is most likely “old” looking and dirty from being outside for so long. If you are making the effort to replace you roof, you should replace everything so the entire roofing system looks nice. Leaving old materials to save a few bucks isn’t worth loosing on the appearance. If you want your roof to last as long as possible, everything should be replaced when doing a re-roof.

My roof should have a drip edge or overhanging shingles right? It's like  this all around the house. Luckily I rent. : Roofing

How to install:

It is installed different on the eaves and rakes, once the roof deck is prepared the drip edge will be installed before the underlayment. Always consult with your local roofing company before doing any DIY work. Your roof is the most important part of your home, look for the best roofing company in your area to be sure the job is done correctly.

Step one: If you are using a type C, you can install a furring strip which will aide in its performance. A furring edge is a strip of wood that is installed on the vertical surfaces of the house under the roofs edge. When this is installed it keeps the flower flange away from the homes siding to direct water away from the home.

Step two: First install drip edges on the eaves and placing the it down, so that the water will go into the gutters. The flange will point down and away from the roof.

Step three: Using roofing nails, nail every 12 inches, never allowing more than 12 inches without a nail. When placing it piece down, it should never over the first by an inch.  

Filed Under: Gutters, Metal Roofing, Ridge Vent, Roof, Roof Flashing, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roof Shingles, Roofing, Roofing Materials, Uncategorized

Preparing Your Home For a Roof Replacement

September 21, 2020 by Infinite Roofing 1 Comment

Today is the day of your brand new roof installation! This is an exciting time but it is important to remember that once your local roofing company arrives, your home is a “work zone” and can be dangerous. Even if you and your family are eager to sneak a close look as we rip off your old roof and prepare the new one, we urge you to keep a safe distance as our crew does their work. Infinite Roofing and Construction prioritizes your roof replacement to be a stress-free and seamless operation. We have a few tips to keep you safe and help your roof installation go as smooth as possible.

Relocate Vehicles

One of the most important requests we have for you is to please relocate your vehicles out of the driveway. Our roofing contractors need quick access to their trucks and tools throughout the day, you’ll want to have your vehicles a safe distance from the “work zone” until the job has been completed. As we arrive in the morning we back in our large trailer to be filled up with all debris from your old roofing system in your driveway.

Cover valuables

If your home has an attic that you use as storage, it is a good idea to move valuable items or cover them while construction is being done. Even if your entire roof isn’t being ripped off, dust and other particles are likely to penetrate through the roof and into your attic. Simply covering important items with an old sheet or drop cloth will work perfectly fine. Once your roof is complete there may need to be some clean up on your end in the attic, a light vacuum should be sufficient in getting up residual dust from the work.  

Landscape

Trimming areas around your property is appreciated, any tree branches that are hanging over your roof will need to be removed. Mowing your lawn previous to your roofing installation will help us to identifying falling objects from your roof, which make it easier for us to see and pick up. Our roofing contractors go around your property with a magnetic nail sweeper upon completion to be sure all sharp nails and other objects are recovered, a short lawn improves its accuracy.

Patio and Lawn furniture

If you have large patio furniture that you think might be in the way for our roofing contractors, we kindly ask you to temporarily move them. If you have other important items to you such as large garden pots, bikes, lighting posts, or anything else that might be in the way for our crew to work, please relocate those items. If you are unable to move large heavy items yourself, we are happy to help or do it for you. We would prefer it to be done prior to our arrival just so nothing happens to your valuables, we don’t want to be liable for unnecessary damage.

Pictures and Knickknacks

Many people choose to have a new roofing system put on and couple it with new siding, to get both done at once for convenience. If this is the case for you then we suggest prepping the inside of your home prior to our arrival. Vibrations from heavy machinery and hammers can travel through your home, especially if wood and decking is being replaced. These vibrations may cause pictures or other items to come loose from your walls, although it will not feel like an earthquake, we would rather be safe and suggest taking down valuable items that are not tightly secured by screws.

Sprinkler

Depending on the season that you are having your roof replaced, we want to remind you to please turn off your sprinkler system. Most sprinkler systems are set automatically and it is easy to forget to turn them off. We may have your roofing materials delivered the previous day or the day of, so we want to make sure that your sprinklers are off so your materials do not get wet.

Best Sprinkler Review - Top 5 Coolest List for Sep. 2020 with Buying Guide

Satellite Dish and Antenna

If you have an old satellite or antenna that is not being used we will remove and dispose of it. If you’re currently using the satellite dish or antenna we will remove and reinstall it. After your roofing installation you may need to call you cable company to have it re-calibrated. Your local roofing company can advise you where they think you should install your satellite dish or antenna, so that it will not harm your new roof. Any nails that are not correctly nailed in can result in leaks. Even the smallest nail hole can result in major damage to your new roofing system, and even not be covered by your warranty.

Skylights

If you are installing new skylights we do advise that you put down an old sheet or drop cloth under where your skylight is housed. While work is being done around your skylight, it is likely that some debris from installation will come inside and onto your floor.

Children and Pets

You may not think to relocate you children or pets during your roof installation, but keep in mind that it will be loud and there will be some commotion. It might not be the easiest to let your dog out into yard where the crew is working and the noises might disturb them. Children are naturally curious, the trucks and large machinery will probably interest them, please remember this is a work zone and children should not be present.

Filed Under: Roof, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roofing, Roofing Materials, Uncategorized

How to deal with animals in your roof vents and attics

August 10, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

roof critters

Maybe you’ve heard an animal in the attic scratching at night?

In North America we are home to variety of wildlife that sometimes make their way into your roof vents and attics. Some common types of animals that make their way into your home include raccoons on the roof, birds squeezing into exhaust vents, squirrels nesting in the attic and other critters that you would much rather see in nature rather than your home.

How do I get rid of an animal in my attic or roof? In this article we’ll answer many questions you may have regarding how to get rid of these pests and keep them out.

The first question you most likely have is, how to know if you have an uninvited animal guest in the first place without consulting a local roofing contractor first? You will most likely hear the tiny scurrying of the animal across your ceiling from above or even see or smell its presence. Animals are often looking for a warm cozy place to nest during mating season in the spring months, especially in northern climates.  

How can animals get through roof vents or into your attic?

Some signs of entry for pests include:

  • Gaps in between the fascia and the eaves
  • Open chimneys
  • Loose fascia
  • Missing shingles
  • Holes in the siding

Once an animal is inside of your home there are some common signs to look for such as:

  • Nests or hives
  • Droppings or urine marks
  • Chewed wires or pipes
  • Torn insulation or air ducts

How do I squirrel proof my roof?

During the day squirrels are the most active critter that may cause havoc in your home, while at night nocturnal animals such as raccoons and bats are more prevalent. There is a distinctive difference in the tread sounds of squirrels, mice and rats compared to those of larger animals like raccoons which are much slower and heavy. Their sounds may be heard from overhead in the attic, ceiling, in between walls, exhaust vents or inside of chimneys. Trimming tree branches that hang close to your roof will prevent squirrels from gaining access to your home. Squirrels can jump from more than 10ft away so be sure to cut enough of the limb.  

Potential damage can be done by not only mammals but other common infestations like insects, termites or cockroaches. We recommend that you always consult with a professional in pest control or a local roofing contractor to remove uninvited animals or pests from your home as it can be dangerous. A well trained animal specialist can remove the problem in a safe and effective manner while following the bylaws of the protected species.

Bees and Wasps:

These tiny tenants like to hive in your attic or outside in the corners of porches or decking. In the summer months bees and wasps are less likely to make a home in your attic because of the temperatures reaching up to 180 degrees F. The wax in a honeybee hive melts at 130 degrees F so it’s more likely to see their hives on the perimeter of your home than inside. Once a hive is detected it is important to have it safely removed so your and your family do not get stung, especially if there is an allergy in your family.

Mice and rats

How do I keep mice out of my roof vents?

Among the most common pests in a household include mice, rats or other rodents. Garbage and clutter attract these rodents but even if your home is very clean they will still seek shelter and a source for food. In the fall into winter months rodents look for shelter indoors to escapes the cold and nest. They reproduce very quickly in large numbers so it’s important to take care of the problem when you first see the signs.

These pests enter your home at ground level and can squeeze through the smallest of cracks, once they have broken inside they travel between walls through your entire house. Rodents become dangerous because they like to chew things including wires, wood, insulation, piping and even concrete; resulting in property damage and creating a fire hazard. Some ways to prevent an infestation of mice is by sealing off small holes around the exterior of your house and inspecting your vents for small openings. If you do find small gaps cover with mesh to prevent the rodents from slipping through.

Birds and Bats

If you have found a bird in your home or nesting up in the attic it is not an uncommon occurrence. In the summer birds and bats can easily enter your home through a window or door that has been left open or even slip through a gap between siding, finding its way to your attic to nest. These animals like dry, private spaces where they will be unbothered and protected from predators.

 If a bat colony has formed in your attic it is best to deal with immediately because of their guano deposits. Not only does this give off an abrasive odor but the acidity levels make the material highly corrosive to building materials, wood, and insulation. Bats can also gain access to your home through extremely small spaces which make your home vulnerable to an infestation.

Birds on the other hand like to make nests in heating pipes and exhaust vents to capture the warmth which acts as an incubator. This might sound harmless but their droppings can attract cockroaches and other insects.

Does bird poop affect shingles?

Bird droppings contain uric acid which damages your roof, asphalt shingles are even more susceptible. The acid within the droppings dissolves the asphalt and also provides nutrients which encourages algae growth or moss.

Raccoons

Related to the panda bear, raccoons look cute and friendly but possess the power to rip shingles right from your roof, breaking into the soffit and fascia. Some entry points can leave large holes which snow and rain can penetrate that cause serious weather damage to your home. Chewing through insulation and wires risking a fire hazard also poses a problem.

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”-Benjamin Franklin

There are many options available to aide you in prevention of keeping animals out of your attic and roof vents. It is always best to consult with a local roofing contractor and animal removal specialist service to humanely remove any animal infestations.

A local roofing contractor can:

  • Help seal any holes or gaps that are potential entry points at roof or ground level
  • Replace missing or old shingles and repair holes in fascia or soffit
  • Use gutter guards to keep out squirrels
  • Install spikes along eaves which deter birds from roosting on your roof
  • Install mesh or other metal to cover large openings around chimney, ridge vents or gable

Filed Under: Ridge Vents, Roof, Roof Maintenance, Roof Shingles Tagged With: roof animals, roof maintenance

How To Find Chimney Leaks

March 5, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

As a homeowner, you know that keeping the mechanisms of your house regularly maintenanced and well groomed is important. This is extremely true when it comes to your fireplace and chimney. As a chimney being part of your homes structure, if your chimney is damaged or leaking it can lead to some serious costly problems if it is left neglected. A regular maintenance and inspection from your trusted Albany roofers is a greater way to catch and fix any problems that may have occurred without your notice. 

Now, you may be wondering what are the common chimney failure points, well the most common areas that chimneys fail are 

  • Base Flashing  (where the roofing and chimney meet) 
  • Step flashing that is installed under the shingles and over the ice and water barrier. 
  • Counter flashing
  • Within the brick veneer, stone veneer, and exterior insulation
  • Chimney cap
  • Vent stacks and flues

Is it normal for rain to come down the chimney?

If there is a sound of dripping coming from your chimney after a heavy rain storm or you notice moisture and stains on the wall there is an issue. Therefore, you must contact either a qualified roofing installer or a chimney repair specialist. Rainwater trickling into your fireplace is not normal. In fact, it is a telltale sign that there is an issue within your chimney system. The chimney is a much more complicated structure than most people realize. For this reason pinpointing the exact source of the leak can be challenging. Therefore, when it comes to detecting the source of the problem, contacting any professional roofers in your area, especially roofers in Albany is the best resort. Below are some signs to look for and the reasons why your chimney would be leaking. 

Signs of water in your chimney

To fix a leaky chimney the first thing that should happen is finding where the problem is and how it happend. Some appear extremely obvious leaving puddles in your fireplace. Then there are the less obvious signs of chimney leaks which most likely is damaging your chimney. Visually inspect the bricks of your chimney. When you are visually inspecting the chimney, you should be looking for spalling. Spalling is when the surface of the brick is flaking away, it looks cracked, broken and is missing some or a lot of bricks. With that being said you would see some pieces of brick or stones on your roof. The reason that spalling happens in your chimney is because it sustained water or moisture damage. Too much moisture penetrating the mortar can result in spalling. 

The other sign of water damage is efflorescence. When it comes to efflorescence it is a lot easier to spot because it results in white residue on your chimney bricks. The white residue is salt deposits that are caused by the migration of salt to the surface of your bricks. It also can occur due to rain, but it can also come from condensation forming within your chimney. 

The reason that chimneys leak 

If there is a pool of water or signs of water in your chimney, there could be a few things that are going wrong. The easiest way of detecting and repairing a leaking chimney is calling your local roofing contractor. If you feel safe on a ladder or have easy access to the chimney then these are some signs to look for yourself. 

  • Cracked or torn chimney flashing. The flashing is the material that surrounds the part of your chimney that meets with the rooftop. Flashing is typically aluminum, sealed with tar, which bends over the sides of your chimney and shingles. Flashing keeps water from entering the cracks between your chimney and roof. If you see cracks or tears in your flashing, this could be allowing water to enter during rainstorms. 
  • Deteriorating mortar. The mortar that holds the brick, stone, or stucco of your chimney together plays an important role in waterproofing the system. If your mortar is cracked, missing pieces, worn away, or otherwise damaged, it could be allowing water inside. Cracks in the mortar can occur naturally over time. Repairing mortar right away can prevent worse water damage from occurring. 
  • Lack of chimney cap. The chimney cap is an accessory, not a necessity. However, buying a chimney cap that fits your chimney can prevent rain from falling straight down the chimney stack and into your fireplace. A chimney cover can prevent water leaks and other things such as falling leaves or birds from clogging your chimney. 
  • Cracked chimney crown. The crown of your chimney is the surface as its very top, typically made of cement. If you see cracks in your chimney crown, this could be the source of water in your fireplace. Cracks can allow water to seep through the flue lining and enter the chimney, causing potential damage to your walls and ceiling. If caught soon enough, a professional can seal cracks instead of having to replace the crown entirely. 
  • Issues with wood siding. Your home’s siding could affect the performance of your chimney and fireplace. If you have wood siding that’s warped, peeling away from your home, or missing, this can allow water to get behind the siding and leak into your chimney. Replacing or repairing your siding can prevent these types of water leaks.   
  • Check the chimney cap. If you don’t have a chimney cap then you will need to get one. Without one, water can easily get into the firebox and drip down the walls of the flue liner at will causing your fireplace to drip and sometimes pool water. Damage to an existing chimney cap can also be a water issue and may need to be repaired or replaced if the damage is beyond repair. If you need to replace a cap get one that is rust resistant like a stainless chimney cap. Rusting caps are always a problem and will eventually break down and need to be replaced. If you get the right one the first time you should not have to deal with this issue again. 

Is chimney waterproofing necessary?

Masonry chimneys are mainly built with bricks or stone bonded with mortar, a cement material, that forms a sturdy and practically impenetrable structure.  But like most structures, water is a mortal enemy that can bring down a chimney like a falling deck of cards. However, keep in mind that all masonry chimney construction materials, except for stone, will end up suffering from accelerated deterioration, due to prolonged contact with water.

The reason is because bricks are composed of clay which is a soft and porous material. During the brick-making process a waterproof hard outer shell is backed in to prevent the bricks from soaking up water. However, if the material continues to be exposed to periods of different temperatures and wind, rain and snow, it can take a beating that will eventually begin to pierce the outer layer of the bricks. Without waterproofing the chimney tine holes will begin to form in the brick surface like a sponge that will gradually grow larger allowing water to penetrate the flue and damage other chimney components. 

In addition, excessive exposure to moisture will also soften the mortar. Left untreated it will eventually melt away where you may notice gaps between the bricks or stone masonry that will also enable water leak inside the chimney. In extreme cases where chimneys have not been maintained for years it is not unusual to spot missing bricks and mortar. The chimney may also begin to lean as the foundation shifts due to its weight. This can also damage the structure of the home as the chimney pulls apart from flashing material attached to the roof. 

As a result chimney masonry should be protected from exposure to water. That’s why many chimney professionals recommend homeowners apply waterproof sealer to protect the chimney from water damage. It’s important that the waterproof coating will wear over time and gradually lose its effectiveness. So for optimum performance, waterproofing should be reapplied every five years by your local roofer in Albany or any roofers in your area if you are not located in the Albany area.

Coated or painted chimneys

If you own a chimney and have had the copper flashing replaced you should reseal the existing chimney to prevent any further leakage. Hiring the wrong contractor, any old painter, or someone who uses a sealing product that is not meant for exterior masonry can cause more issues down the road if it counteracts with cement. Coating the chimney is meant to be used as a last resort and should only be used for sealing a leaking chimney and will not be of any help for structural support or loose bricks. 

How do I stop my chimney from leaking?

When you have roof flashing around chimneys it can separate from the brick, therefore, allowing rainwater to leak inside the house. If your chimney flashing is leaking or loose here are some things you do. First thing is to clean any leaves or other debris out of the gap between the flashing chimney. You should use a chisel to remove any hardened roofing cement. Apply roofing cement behind the flashing and use masonry nails or screws to reattach the flashing tight against the chimney. 

Last Thoughts!

Water in your chimney is not a normal thing, and it is certainly not anything that should be ignored. A leaky chimney can cause a lot of damage as mentioned above. To avoid any moisture damage that would cause your bricks to collapse into the chimney and clog it, contact your local roofers in Albany. If you’re not in the Albany area just simply search roofing companies near me and find the roofing contractor that will work on your chimney. No homeowners should have to deal with a clogged chimney that can further create a dangerous situation like carbon monoxide leaks in your home. 

Filed Under: Roof, Roof Flashing, Roof Inspections, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Tips

The Dangers of Asbestos

February 14, 2020 by Infinite Roofing 1 Comment

Dangers of Asbestos Blog Cover

What is Asbestos? Why is it Dangerous?

Asbestos is a naturally occurring substance. In the environment, it poses virtually no threat to humans. However, the problem with asbestos initially arose out of the full-scale mining, extraction, and use of the substance in the roofing industry which led to an increase of the amount of asbestos in the air. Asbestos fibers are microscopic, so when they are exposed they can become airborne and inhaled. Once inhaled, they can lodge in the outer tissue of the lungs and abdomen, which over time leads to inflammation, scarring and the eventual formation of fatal diseases such as lung cancer.  This is why many homeowners have begun to get asbestos roof removals done for their safety. Many homeowners today are seeking to get an asbestos roof removal once discovered.

How Can I Tell If It’s Asbestos?

The reliable way to know if your home contains asbestos is to hire an environmental consulting firm or asbestos building inspector for asbestos testing. They’ll take fingernail-sized samples and test them in a laboratory. You can’t see or smell asbestos, but exposure to loose fibers can cause lung diseases such as mesothelioma, asbestosis or lung cancer. The naturally occurring, flame-retardant mineral fibers are too small to identify without a microscope, so don’t believe anyone who claims you have asbestos but hasn’t done testing.

Is An Asbestos Roof Dangerous?

One of the widest uses of asbestos in the building industry was in roofing. Due to its heat and fire-resistant properties, asbestos was added to many roofing products including roofing tiles. Cement tiles were not comprised solely of cement. Cement roofing tiles were largely made from cement, with the now-banned product added into the cement mixture. Depending on the manufacturer, the cement tiles would typically be made with between 10 to 15 percent asbestos. 

In addition to its heat and fire-resistant properties, asbestos has excellent strength and durability features. New homes built prior to the 1970s with asbestos roofs, were lauded for the longevity of their roof systems, as the roofs had a life expectancy of 30 to 50 years. Although asbestos serves as a formidable roofing material, it exposed people to a list of compromising health issues, which led to its eventual ban. 

Do I Have to Remove My Asbestos Roof or Siding?

Many homes, especially the ones that were built at the turn of the twentieth century, have siding or roof shingles that contain asbestos. Asbestos has plenty of quality features, including its durability and fire-resistance. However, it also poses many significant health hazards. The inherent question that comes with this is whether it is necessary to remove your asbestos-containing roofing shingles or fiber cement siding to protect your family’s health?

We know that there are many homeowners who want a roofing company that does asbestos roof removal. A homeowner should be aware of the harmful effects that occur with asbestos when someone breathes in a tiny, sharp fiber, which irritates and inflames the lungs. If the asbestos is not airborne, it is not a danger. The asbestos in shingles, siding, and other home products is encapsulated, which is surrounded by a coating of something else that keeps it from becoming airborne. If your roof or siding shingles are in good condition, they are unlikely to pose a health hazard to you or your family.  The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recommends not disturbing asbestos if at all possible. 

Unfortunately, while asbestos home products are durable and long-lasting, everything must be replaced eventually.  In 1989 asbestos was banned, leading to the asbestos roofs and sidings to fall into disrepair. Many asbestos roofs and sidings are damaged, cracked, or broken. Asbestos siding in particular, however, has a tendency to chip, crack, and break with normal wear-and-tear of family life. This can release the fibers into the air, which poses a threat to your family’s and neighbors’ health.

How Can You Tell If Old Siding Has Asbestos?

Many manufacturers made their products to look like asbestos-free products, so it is not really possible to determine if your siding contains asbestos just by looks. You can easily send a sample to a lab if you suspect that it may contain asbestos. Or you can hire a specialist to take a look at the siding so that they can determine if you have an asbestos siding.

Can I Install New Siding Over Old Asbestos?

Some people try to attempt to solve the problem of deteriorating asbestos siding by installing vinyl siding over on top of it. This practice is not recommended for a number of reasons. First, the siding installation process itself, nailing into existing boards or tiles, is enough to disturb the existing material and create a dangerous condition. Second, installing vinyl siding over any existing materials, particularly those in poor condition, can lead to additional problems in your home and can hide the development of those problems until they become extremely large and costly to repair.  Therefore, hiring a specialist or roofing contractor who has the right education for asbestos would help in asbestos roof removal. 

Can You Pressure Wash Asbestos Siding?

Painting asbestos siding is not difficult at all, as one of its benefits is that paint easily adheres to it and it is very durable and can last for decades without chipping or cracking. However, when cleaning the siding before painting, the important thing to note is that you should avoid power washing asbestos siding as it can chip or damage the siding and release the dangerous asbestos fibers into the air. If you do pressure wash, use a gentle touch if possible and stop immediately if you find that you’re knocking pieces of siding off. This means that you’ll have to take some extra time cleaning and prepping the siding before painting and rely on a garden hose and sponges instead. If you manage to chip damage your siding and worry it may be made with asbestos, make an appointment to have the material tested to confirm.

Do You Have to Disclose Asbestos When Selling a House?

For starters, it is not illegal to sell a house with asbestos. Obviously, buyers would much rather buy a home with no asbestos concerns. However, outside of a thorough inspection, there is no way to tell if a home contains this potentially toxic material. If you know your house has asbestos, you might disclose the information to buyers. Again, it’s not illegal to sell a home with asbestos, but you can be liable for not disclosing the information to the buyer if you knew it was present beforehand.

Cement Asbestos Roofing 

When asbestos came into the picture many manufacturers experimented with it. In the 1880s manufacturers used asbestos fibers in mixtures that resulted in building products like insulation for steam pipes and boilers. It was eventually being mixed in Portland cement and the paste was used as a roof repair compound. In 1907, process equipment was invented that produced rigid sheets from the cement-asbestos mixture. These sheets could be pigmented and cut into manageable shapes and were able to have textured patterns pressed into the surface. The result was very durable siding and roofing shingles that imitate traditional, natural products, both less expensive and lighter than slate. They don’t rot or warp like wood and are extremely fire resistant. It’s not at all surprising that the popularity of these asbestos sheets skyrocketed throughout two-thirds of the twentieth century. 

The manufacturers of individual asphalt shingles, which were less expensive and more flexible than cement asbestos, were major competitors for market share in the roofing material industry by the 1920s. In the late 1930s, asphalt strip shingles, coated with granules in a wide variety of colors, were the most popular roof covering. 

Asbestos-containing products, like the cement mixture, posed very little health risk if the material is kept in good condition and not disturbed. Severely worn or damaged asbestos roofs and walls, or improper repairs, alterations, or removals can allow the release of the fibers and risk the health of the occupants and neighbors.  The EPA provides detailed information about managing asbestos-containing products on its web site. 

The Problems

Cement asbestos roof shingles typically have a much shorter life than the siding panels. If a replacement is needed, removal can be a significant expense. If the shingles are severely weathered, to a point that the material can be crushed by hand, professional abatement is needed. Precautions should still be taken even if they’re intact. The fasteners securing them should be kept wet and lowered to the ground instead of being tossed down. Individual states and municipalities may also have additional requirements for the removal and specific requirements for disposal.  

Like tile and slate roofs, occasionally there may be some cracked, broken, or missing tiles or slates, or flashing repairs that may be needed. Maintaining an asbestos tile roof can be difficult. Finding contractors willing to work with the material associated with the A word can be a challenge. It can also be a challenge to find contractors that are mindful of the brittle nature of these tiles. Some roofing contractors, experienced with slate and tile roof repairs are willing to repair and restore asbestos tile roofs. The tools, equipment, and techniques they use for their regular repairs are well-suited for working with the brittle shingles. There are also a few good sources of salvaged replacement shingles that with luck can be a close match to the existing roof. 

Hopefully, the remaining cement asbestos roof tiles are in good to repairable condition and will be properly maintained for the maximum potential life. Those that are beyond safe repair will need to be properly and professionally removed, and will likely be replaced with a roof that looks like most other roofs, and will likely only last one-third as long.
If you or someone you know is concerned about the effects that asbestos can have on their health, please visit the EPA website for more information on handling asbestos the proper way.

Filed Under: Commercial Flat Roofing, Flat roof, Maintenance, Repair, Roof, Roof Inspections, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roof Shingles, Roofing, Roofing Materials, Siding, Tips Tagged With: asbestos, asbestos removal, roof, roofing, roofing contractors

Can I Replace My Roof In The Winter?

February 7, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

Winter Roofing Blog Cover

Installing a roof in the winter is very different compared to installing one during the summer. There are a lot more precautions to focus on when trying to install a roof when the temperature drops. A customer can call and want a repair service and the roofing contractor realizes that they need a full roof replacement. Some homeowners may want to wait until the spring to get their roof replaced, but some situations call for an immediate replacement. A homeowner would have to consider this if the heating of the home is being affected by the damage for the winter season. Roofing in the winter can seem intimidating, however, taking the right precautions will make the process simple, safe, and painless. The good news is that most materials will perform up to a certain point with just a few tweaks to your technique. If you adjust your work style to construct a roof designed to last through cold temperatures, being careful to not damage the roofing materials, you can be sure that you can count on your new roof even during the harsh winter.

Do Roofing Contractors Work In The Winter?

Roofing contractors do work in the winter. You may be wondering, isn’t it dangerous for a roofer to work on top of your home in icy conditions? Roofing contractors need to work in the winter as well, and what you may not know is that some roofers actually prefer to work during the winter than in the summertime. When they are working on your roof during the summer time and it’s about 90 degrees outside, it is actually about 120 degrees on your roof. If your roof has an accumulation of snow, it would probably take about 30 minutes to an hour to get all of that snow off, depending on the size of your roof. After that is done, the roofing contractors can get to work.

Winter Roofing Contractor Safety

There are ways to carefully and safely take advantage of the business boosting benefits of working year-round, by understanding how to minimize the drawbacks of winter weather. Roofing contractors should follow safety standards published by the OSHA to ensure everyone’s safety. Never under any circumstances should a roofing contractor put your work before personal safety. Finishing a job is never worth risking a life, so when a roofing contractor deems it unsafe to work on your roof due to weather conditions, be sure to respect the limits.

Snow And Ice Make For Slippery Surfaces

Roof surfaces can become slick and slippery due to snow, ice, or frost. This means roofers must take extra precautions when working on a roof by wearing roof-fall protection equipment, working methodically and carefully, and wearing high-performance gear such as winter-rated work boots which have been tested for wet and cold conditions. 

A common winter consideration before starting a roofing project is the snow removal or de-icing of the roof surface after a storm. This requires extra time, extra caution, and different equipment of which workers need to be trained on, along with increased monitoring while the removal is taking place.  After all of that, the asphalt roofing manufacturers association warns, even on a freshly cleared roof, there may be nearly invisible ice or frost build-up on the roof or deck surface, which can make it extremely hazardous for anyone to work on. It is advisable to wait until the roof surface is free of ice and frost for safer roof installation. Ensure that the attic space is adequately ventilated. Often, what appears to be a roof leak is actually a considerable amount of moist interior air drifting up into a cold, improperly ventilated attic.

Snow Can Hide Hazards

Pay close attention to where you work and walk to ensure you don’t accidentally step on or fall through any hazards you may find on a roof such as a skylight, pipe, or any materials hidden under the accumulation. Make sure to clear surfaces before working and pay close attention to the location of objects while disposing of snow and ice.

Cold Weather Can Be Hard On The Body

Working in below temperatures can put a strain on the body, making your heart and lungs work harder, while at the same time putting the roofing contractor at an increased risk for hypothermia or frostbite. Roofers should work shorter hours, planned around the sunshine and warmer weather forecasts. Adjust the schedule to avoid uncomfortable cold temperatures and potential snow or ice storms. Roofing contractors should always wear layers of warm clothing that is breathable but provides ample coverage, hides exposed skin, and insulates against wind.

What Types of Roofs Can I Install In The Winter?

Now let’s get to the heart of the issue. Roofing materials all behave differently in conditions below 40 degrees. There are types of materials that should not be installed in these conditions and some that can be installed any time of year, regardless of the weather. 

Here’s what to do depending on your home’s roofing material.

Can I Install A Flat Roof In The Winter?

There are two flat roof systems that can be properly installed during the winter and they are PVC and TPO roofing systems.These thermoplastic single ply flat roofing products are mechanically installed and are hot air welded instead of using adhesives. However, with rubber roofs like EPDM, it is a completely different scenario when it comes to installing these systems. With a rubber roof, it should not be installed in temperatures below 40 degrees because the adhesives that seal it will freeze and not bond. Contractors who say they can and will conduct rubber roof projects are ignoring manufacturer suggestions and proceeding with this project can result in roof leaks and voided warranties. It is a good idea to hold off on winter roof replacement if you’re looking at rubber roofs until it gets a bit warmer to allow for proper adhesion of the roofing material.

Can I Install Asphalt Shingles In The Winter?

The short answer is that shingles can be installed in cold weather, however, there are some precautions that must be taken when it comes to the installation. Roofing contractors must be careful not to bend and crack the shingle.The asphalt material in the shingle may lose its flexibility and resistance as the temperature goes down. Therefore, it becomes harder to bend the shingles and to cut them straight. With that in mind, the shingles might end up being more brittle, which could cause the shingles to end up being overdriven by nails when using regular pressure in the system. However, with a professional roofing contractor, they would be extra cautious of that and would take their time to do it right. There are ways to deliver a proper installation during the winter.

Another important consideration is whether the cold weather application of the shingles will increase the chances of the shingles being blown off. The shingles are lined with an adhesive that most of the time requires the sun to activate to bond the shingles, which would in return prevent the wind catching them. Depending on the manufacturer, the glue may activate at different temperatures. The manufacturer may specify that the shingles will not bond properly due to temperatures below 40 degrees, therefore, the roofing contractor would have to apply an adhesive of some sort underneath every laminate shingle with a caulking gun and then press the shingles into the adhesive. Winter in North America can get pretty bad, which means asphalt shingles are also susceptible to ice dams, which are large ice formations along the eaves of roofs caused by poor ventilation or inadequate insulation in the attic. An ice and water shield membrane is a great method to prevent ice dam leaks, but it also requires the sun’s heat to properly adhere to the roof deck, so some of the same shortcomings may apply. In the end, roofing contractors must take these precautionary steps in order to help prevent wind from blowing the shingles away before there is sufficient heat for them to self-seal, as well as prevent any ice build up which would lead to leaks.

When roofers work on your roof they use so many different roofing tools. Generally, some are not affected by cold temperatures, however, there some tools such as nail guns and compressors that can be affected by the cold temperature. When air is compressed and is released into your roofing system, the humidity will turn the air into water. However, if it’s winter time and it’s freezing, that water would end up freezing in the airlines and reduce the airflow that the roofing contractor is trying to get in the roof. When it comes to nails, they need to be installed flush with the shingle, not overdriven or under driven.

Can I Install A Metal Roof In The Winter

Metal roofs can be installed in the winter without compromising quality. Cold conditions do not affect metal roofs since they won’t crack due to improper handling. They are designed to allow for expansion and contraction, so the outside temperatures won’t make a difference. Just be sure to use a premium breathable synthetic underlayment to combat moisture caused by poor ventilation and always upgrade intake and output ventilation whenever possible. Whether you need winter roof repair or replacement, metal roofs are safe during any season.

Be Considerate

Roofing contractors understand that you want your roof repair or replacement done as soon as possible so you can get back to your everyday life. However, understand the limitations that come with working on a roof during the winter season. A roofing contractor will work when they feel it is safe to do so and will make sure all the proper steps are taken to ensure the best quality for your roof. If a contractor denies doing any service due to winter weather, it is to make sure the quality of the work and materials are at their highest for your roof. Contact your local roofing contractor for more information on their winter weather roofing projects.

Filed Under: Roof, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roofing, Rooftop Snow Removal

The Importance of Roof Flashing

January 7, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

Roof Flashing

What is Roof Flashing?

Roof flashing provides protection for different areas of your roof and works in conjunction with your roofing material. Flashing is applied to roofing corners and valleys, as well as objects that jut out through your roof. So let’s talk about what exactly is roof flashing. How does it work? Where is it used? And the different roof flashing types such as counter flashing or step flashing.

Flashing is usually built out of metal, but it may contain steel, zinc, copper, aluminum, and even plastic or rubber. Flashing is used to keep roof components waterproof and prevent any damage. Without flashing, roof components such as the junctions between walls, dormers, or chimneys may come into contact with water which can saturate, leak, and damage the component or the structure of the house. In short, the roof flashing keeps the integrity of your home intact.

The way that flashing works is by connecting to various roofing components, and it can be overlapped and connected with one another in order to keep leaks from penetrating the roof or any of the structures on your roof. Flashing can be installed with nails, glue, and caulking in order to keep your roof waterproof.

Roof flashing installation occurs throughout your roof, including all of the following places:

  • Valleys and Joints – the joints found throughout your roof structure are more susceptible to penetration from water, as are roof valleys. Roof joints often aren’t watertight, and roof valleys collect more water than the rest of the roof. The roof flashing ensures that these critical areas of your roof are protected. 
  • Roof Protrusions – If there’s anything jutting out of your roof, there should be flashing to protect it. If, for instance, you have cables that tie into a satellite that’s installed on your roof, flashing can protect the opening for the satellite cables free from water and prevent any future damage. 
  • Drip Edging – Drip edging is flashing that is applied to the edges of roofs where there aren’t gutters. Think of drip edging as a specialized roof flashing at the edge of your roof that acts as guides to prevent water from getting behind gutters and ensure that all water is directed away from your roof. 
  • Chimneys – Chimney flashing is necessary since water can run through and collect right at the base of a chimney. Chimney flashing should be installed at the base of your chimney to keep water from infiltrating the joint between your roof and your chimney. 
  • Pipes – It’s likely that your roof has a few pipes that penetrate the surface of your home. For instance, you probably have drain-waste vents which keeps the pressure from building up in your plumbing. These pipes can compromise a waterproof roof if they are left unprotected. Specialized “pipe boots”, which work exactly as it sounds, can be placed around these pipes in order to protect your roof. 
  • Kickouts – Kickout flashing is installed at the lowermost joint between your roof and your wall. The kickout flashing, also known as diverter flashing, diverts rainwater away from your wall and into your gutter to avoid any kind of saturation leaks in your roof.

If you have ever noticed that there are any leaks coming from around your chimney or vent, most likely your flashing was not installed correctly or is no longer sufficient. The main purpose of roof flashing is to protect your home from moisture & saturation. The flashing extends below your roofing and adjacent to siding to create a solid, weatherproofing seal on your home to protect you from the elements. It is also much more durable and lasts longer than trying to seal or caulk around the spaces. Before sheet products were available, builders had to use different methods to try to minimize water penetrations. These methods included angling roof shingles away from the joints, installing chimneys at the ridge, and building steps off to the sides of chimneys to divert water.

Furthermore, roof flashing is less susceptible to temperature variations. If and when the other components of your roof shift slightly, due to expansion from heat or ice, the flashing will still be able to act as a barrier from the elements. If you have any concerns or thoughts that you could be having leaks call your local roofing contractor.

Flashing also adds a clean, finished look to your roof. There are areas of roofs and exterior walls that are more susceptible to leaks and water damage such as the valleys or junctions where roof sections or walls meet. It is usually installed around structures that intersect with the roofline such as dormers, skylights, vents, and chimneys. Flashing comes in a variety of materials to accommodate the desired look for the consumer. Although you may see rubber or plastic flashing out in the market, metal flashing is the more prominent kind of flashing. One of the most common types of metal flashing material used is aluminum because it is usually the most cost-effective, durable, and weather-resistant.

Counter Flashing

For starters, counter flashing is only one type of flashing and is a technique that is used to help prevent moisture from penetrating into a home behind the vertical flange of a headwall or sidewall flashing. Pieces of metal are installed in order to prevent water from passing through a structure at its joint and ensure the water is directed away from the structure. Sometimes the material used, such as vinyl, for the exterior wall siding will be enough to serve as counter flashing itself and other times a separate element is installed. This is especially important in a structure where walls are either brick or stone. The counter flashing installation process is one of the most important parts of completing any roofing system. This type of flashing should be used in conjunction with base and step flashing, to help form a waterproof barrier.

counter flashing
Counter Flashing

The waterproof membrane is the first layer that is laid down before the shingles are installed, called the base flashing. This membrane not only covers the first layer of the roof but also gets turned up the nearby walls or chimneys to help with the flashing process of any joints or valleys between structures. Next, L-shaped pieces of metal, typically aluminum, are placed under each shingle that is installed next to a vertical wall. One side of the L-shaped aluminum flashing lays underneath the shingle while the other side attaches up against the side of the wall. This layer is called the step flashing.

In contrast to step flashing, the next layer is installed as a continuous strip. It is installed either behind or on top of the wall adjacent to the shingles and covers the step flashing. This final layer is called counter, cover or cap flashing and most commonly consists of aluminum or galvanized steel, but is also seen made with copper, tin or even plastic. Depending on the situation, a roof with step flashing installed could sufficient in itself when combined with vinyl siding that can double as counter flashing as long as the step flashing goes underneath it. Otherwise, counter flashing is a critical requirement for all roofs.

Counter Flashing Installation Methods

Counter flashing installation can be done using one of three techniques. The first is through-wall counter flashing, which secures the flashing material to the wall cavity and the exterior siding or masonry covers it. This type of installation is only plausible during a new construction project; otherwise, it typically proves to be cost-prohibitive.

The second technique used to install counter flashing is called surface-mount flashing. This technique attaches the flashing to the exterior siding by using a sealant, typically caulk, to seal the top of the surface-mount flashing. It’s the least expensive method of installation, however, the caulk seal will need to be monitored and eventually repaired or replaced over time because it will inevitably break down.

Reglet flashing is the compromise between through-wall and surface-mount flashing. A cut is made into the exterior masonry at a 90-degree angle and the flashing material is secured in the groove made by the 90-degree cut and bent down to run parallel the exterior masonry. Although it is a more expensive and invasive technique than the surface-mount flashing, reglet flashing does not need maintenance and will last much longer than a sealant. Because of this, reglet flashing is a more convenient, long-lasting option and is recommended over the surface-mounted flashing.

Counter Flashing at Brick Headwalls and Sidewalls

Installing headwall and sidewall flashing correctly becomes more time consuming when the exterior wall covering is brick or stone.“Time-consuming” can mean “more expensive”, which is why a lot of the counter flashing you’ll see at brick and stone walls will be incorrectly installed and will solely rely on some sort of sealant to prevent moisture intrusion. Sealant eventually dries, shrinks and cracks, leaving room for moisture intrusion and future water damage. This is why it is recommended to install regret flashing to ensure the most protection from moisture intrusion.

Step Flashing

step flashing
Step Flashing

Step flashing is an L-shaped piece of metal, typically aluminum or galvanized steel, and is used where a sloped roof intersects a vertical wall. Step flashing is interwoven with the shingles and act essentially as shingles with an unturned leg to allow a transition of the vertical drainage plane of the wall to the drainage plane of the roof. One side of the L-shaped step flashing is behind the vertical drainage plane or sealed to it with some sort of sealant and/or sheathing tape. The bottom leg of the step flashing is placed over the roof drainage plane. A critical component of the step flashing is the piece that is at the end of the slope of the roof is called the kickout flashing. This roof flashing directs water away from the adjoining wall and ensures that the step flashing is not collecting water on the surface of that wall.

Is Continuous Flashing Better Than Step Flashing?

Continuous flashing is sometimes seen where a roof meets a sidewall instead of step flashing, but in the long run, step flashing will do a better job of preventing water leaks. 

Step flashing redirects the water back onto the shingle and away from valleys and joints. Even if one piece of step flashing fails, the next flashing and shingle below it start the process over again, providing a system to protect your roof from water damage. Continuous flashing against a sidewall is one way to install flashing on a roof, but it’s not the correct way. Some may think that a single piece of flashing would offer more protection than many pieces of step flashing, but it doesn’t work that way. Once even a small section of the continuous flashing fails, you’ll have a leak. Each additional rainstorm will add more water, and before you know it, you’ve got rotted wood and a roof inspector in your home.

Step flashing offers far better protection from leaks because even if a single piece of step flashing fails, the water just hits the next step of the flashing. The flashing then directs the water onto the shingle and the water drains down the roof.

Kickout Flashing

Kickout flashing which can also be called diverter flashing is a special type of flashing installed at the edge of the flashing that diverts rainwater away from the cladding and into the gutter. When your roofing contractor installs kickout flashing properly, the flashing will provide excellent protection against the penetration of water behind the exterior wall covering where the flashing ends. Kickout flashing is required regardless of the roofing material excluding brick or concrete block.

Kickout Flashing
Kickout Flashing

Yes, there can be several factors that can lead to rainwater intrusion, but a missing kickout flashing, in particular, often results in concentrated areas of water accumulation and potentially severe damage to exterior walls. If you happen to find saturation and possibly plant growth on the exterior siding of your home, you may have missing kickout flashing causing the water damage.

Apron Flashing

Apron flashing is the metal that covers the transition between a roof slope and a roof penetration such as a dormer or chimney. Having this flashing properly installed is crucial in protecting some of the most vulnerable areas of your roofing system.

apron flashing
Apron Flashing

Apron flashing is usually applied as part of the two-piece roofing system. The apron is the lower L shaped piece that replaces the normal step flashing, which covers the roofing material and extends up the vertical surface of the roof penetration. The second part of the system is something we’ve touched one, which is the counter flashing that extends parallel from the vertical surface and covers the vertical leg of the apron flashing.

The Importance

Now that you have had a breakdown of the important role that roof flashing plays when it comes to the protection of your roof, it is easy to see why it is needed on almost all roofing projects. Without roof flashing, our roofs would be much more susceptible to water damage, costing homeowners thousands of dollars in repair or replacement. So when having your next roof inspected or installed, be sure that your flashing is properly installed by your local roofing contractor to ensure the best protection for your roof.

Filed Under: Gutters, Maintenance, Repair, Roof, Roof Flashing, Roof Maintenance, Roof Replacement, Roofing Tagged With: roof flashing, roofing, step flashing, water damage

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