Roof Flashing | Infinite Roofing & Construction Roofing Blog

Should My Roof Have Drip Edge, and What Color Should It Be?

September 24, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

Is a drip edge necessary? We have complied a guide for all your drip edge questions for shingle roofs. Drip edges are metal flashings that are installed around the edges of a roof to control the flow of water. These metal sheet are usually in the shape of an “L,” and direct water away from the fascia and into the gutters. Without the use of drip edge, water would get under the shingles causing damage in numerous places of the roof. Your local roofing contractor will tell you that drip edge is a requirement by most building codes in North America to help protect homes from damage. As we always suggest, look for the best roofing company in your area to ensure your roofing work is done properly. Not all work is created equal.

What is the purpose of a drip edge on a roof?

As we stated above the main key purpose of installing drip edge is to direct water away from the fascia. Water droplets stick to one another and to the surfaces they are on, drip edge is designed to work with gravity allowing water to be forced into the gutters. Even if a home has no gutters, water will still be forced away and not collected down the fascia or soffit cavity. Without the drip edge water would stick to the shingles, working its way underneath and causing leaks.

Wind driven rain is a serious condition in which the wind forcefully pushes water all around the roof of a home. Each layer of the roofing system is designed to keep the moisture from harming the roof’s deck, which include the shingles, underlayment’s, and ice & water. Strong winds can easily push water upwards and the drip edge must compete to keep the water out. There should be about 2-4 inches of lower flange hanging off the edge of the roof to combat wind driven rain so the roof does not become compromised.

What To Do When You Experience Wind Driven Rain Roof Leak – Roofing Contractor Sullivan IL – Central Roofing LLC

What type of materials are drip edge made with?

Drip edge is made from numerous types of materials such as plastics and metals, the metals must be corrosion resistant or galvanized.

Copper: Many people choose copper because of its aesthetics, it has a beautiful golden color that makes the roof pop.

Deciding on the Right Roofing - Modernize

Aluminum is a very common material used for drip edge. Although it is not as strong as steel aluminum does not corrode and it is often made in many colors that match many homes.

Galvanized steel is another common material used. Galvanized steel is designed to work wither water and prevent rusting. The preferable type of steel is 24 gauge so it can withstand strong winds.

Plastic, vinyl and fiberglass can also be used but these are harder to find in some areas and are not the best suited.

Drip edge comes in three basic profiles, each profile can be called more than one name so it can be a bit confusing. The C type is in the classic L shape. This type of profile is bent in a 90 degree angle with a lower flange. Type D profile is in the shape of a T, this has a lower flange on the bottom. This type is often times called D-metal or the T style. F type is an extended drip edge with a longer edge, this is used when installing a new drip edge over existing shingles and on the rake edges. This type is often called F style or the gutter apron.

The standard sizing of drip edge is sold in 10.5 foot lengths and also 8ft or sometimes smaller. The overhang length ranges from 2-5 inches, you may find other sizing in your local materials store, but smaller sizing is intended for windows and not a roof.

What color should roof drip edge be?

If your homes trim and fascia are white your local roofing contractor will most likely recommend that the best choice is a white drip edge so your home is seamless. If you have for instance gray shutters on your home and other pops of gray, then choosing a gray drip edge might look nice tying it all together. Choosing a color drip edge or any building material is personally preference.

Can you install drip edge on existing roof?

Drip edge is most often replaced when a new roof is installed, but it is possible to replace the drip edge at any time. We would not recommend a local roofing contractor who suggests leaving the old drip edge. It is best to replace the drip edge on an existing roof in the warmer months, shingles can become brittle in the cold and break.

Do you need to replace drip edge when replacing the roof?

No you do not have to replace the drip edge but you should, the old drip edge is most likely “old” looking and dirty from being outside for so long. If you are making the effort to replace you roof, you should replace the drip edge so the entire roofing system looks nice. Leaving the existing drip edge to save a few bucks isn’t worth loosing on the appearance. If you want your roof to last as long as possible, everything should be replaced when doing a re-roof.

My roof should have a drip edge or overhanging shingles right? It's like this all around the house. Luckily I rent. : Roofing

How to install drip edge:

Drip edge is installed different on the eaves and rakes, once the roof deck is prepared the drip edge will be installed before the underlayment. Always consult with your local roofing company before doing any DIY work. Your roof is the most important part of your home, look for the best roofing company in your area to be sure the job is done correctly.

Step one: If you are using a type C drip edge, you can install a furring strip which will aide in its performance. A furring edge is a strip of wood that is installed on the vertical surfaces of the house under the roofs edge. When this is installed it keeps the flower flange away from the homes siding to direct water away from the home.

Step two: First install drip edges on the eaves and placing the drip edge down, so that the water will go into the gutters. The flange will point down and away from the roof.

Step three: Using roofing nails, nail every 12 inches, never allowing more than 12 inches without a nail. When placing the drip edge piece down, it should never over the first by an inch.

Anatomy of a Roof

July 22, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

Most homeowners never really get up close to their roof and try to understand the inner workings of it. So for many, a roof is just a roof, and it keeps the weather out of homes as well as keeping away any animals from flying or crawling into our homes. If we notice anything about a roof, we only notice how well it blends into the neighborhood, or when a branch has fallen on the roof and needs to be removed. The fact of the matter is that the roof above your head is possibly the most expensive thing you’ll ever have to replace on your home. Therefore, the question is do you ever wonder about the parts of a roof and what is installed underneath the shingles?

Aren’t Shingles Enough?

When your local roofing contractor installs shingles, the new roof installation should always be done in accordance with local building codes and regulations. However, another factor that plays a part in how the shingles are installed is the weather conditions in your area. Your local roofing contractors will often have to take a different installation approach depending on whether it is summer or winter. There are different precautionary steps that need to be taken in different weather conditions in order to ensure no damage is done during the installation.

Another thing you should know is that asphalt shingles are most commonly available in strips of 36 inches long by 12 inches wide. Therefore, each strip has a set of three tabs, which provides the visual shingle effect when installed correctly. Each 3 tab strip has a layer of adhesive just above the tabs. The heat of the sun activates the adhesive, which binds to the layer below and creates a seal that augments the nails when installed.

So, shouldn’t the shingles be enough? The shingles cover the largest area of the roof. However, the shingles hide a lot of essential roofing components that protect your roof against the weather, and keep you warm and dry. In other words, your roof shingles are not always a perfect seal from the rain. Especially as shingles age and curl, rain can be blown underneath them. So what’s going to protect your roof when this happens?

What’s Under the Shingles?

On the surface, your average roof may just look like simple layers of asphalt roofing shingles, however, it’s a lot more complex than the average homeowner may realize. The residential roofing system is composed of layers of different components. These components have different attributes when it comes to restricting wind from entering your home as well as resisting other weather hazards such as rain or hail. The most consistent components that you’ll find installed on your roof are the roof decking, underlayment, drip edge, and flashing.

What are the Parts of a Roof?

Roof Decking (Wood Sheathing)

Roof Decking or roof sheathing is a key roofing component that sits on top of the roof trusses. The roof decking is basically the section on the roof that everything is placed on. Since the roof deck holds everything that’s placed on your roof, expect for the material to be strong enough to hold the weight required and continue to be durable. Just like any other roofing component, the roof deck has many different types of materials. The different types of roof decking materials include steel, concrete, cement, and wood. The way that professional roofing contractors determine the type of roof decking material to use is based on how much weight it needs to carry, which further depends on the roofing components and materials selected. When you consider a residential building, the most common type of roof deck is plywood or groove wood systems. Wood generally stands up to the weight of almost any type of roofing component or material placed on top, although tile may require extra reinforcement.

Roof Underlayment

After the roof deck is installed, we move on to the underlayment for the roof. The underlayment is installed on to the decking, and before the installation of the asphalt shingles. The most common underlayment material is felt. The reason is because it has a durable paper material that is saturated with asphalt. The purpose of the underlayment is for it to provide a temporary barrier against rain and wind before the shingles are installed. It also provides an extra layer of protection in the case of broken or torn shingles. When the underlayment is being installed, it is installed by rolling the material onto the roof horizontally. The underlayment is being installed not only to provide that extra barrier from water or wind, but it also helps the water to shed downward off the roof without seeping through the seams. Most professional roofing contractors will have options for traditional roofing felt underlayment or a more modern synthetic roof underlayment.

What is Synthetic Underlayment?

Synthetic roof underlayment is a high tech, high performance layer of material made with a highly sturdy polypropylene fabric, which is installed the same as a traditional felt underlayment. This new synthetic roof underlayment is known to be a lighter and stronger alternative to a felt roof underlayment. Of course, this new high tech underlayment will cost more than the traditional underlayment, but it will last much longer. Ask your local roofing contractors the differences in price as well as features of all their underlayment options to ensure the best quality for the underlayment of your roof.

What is the Purpose of Roof Flashing?

Moisture is a roof’s worst enemy. The purpose of roof flashing is to prevent any water from leaking as well as to extend the overall life of the roof. Next to chimneys, skylights, or valleys on your roof, a professional roofing contractor will install metal flashing to ensure that there is proper drainage on your roof. You want the water to run down into the shingles and off the roof, rather than pool around whatever might be poking out your roof. Roof flashing is nothing more than a piece of sheet metal that is usually made from aluminum or galvanized steel. In order to prevent water from entering the home, the flashing is placed over the joints in the roof and wall construction. This is important for the reason that most of the causes of roof leaks is due to the fault of poor roof flashing installation.

Roof flashing can endure extreme stresses from extreme weather conditions. Therefore, when installing the roof flashing material there should be extra care taken so that it would be capable of withstanding these extremes. Many local roofing contractors would cut and shape the roof flashing materials from sheet metal. However, homeowners can also choose to have the flashing pre-formed. It is very important to use roof flashing materials that aren’t prone to rust, such as stainless steel, to maintain the integrity of the roof flashing.

In order to see an effective use of roof flashing, the material used should be weather resistant, highly durable, low maintenance and sturdy. The latter quality is very important for the fact that many roofing materials regularly expand and contract on a daily basis. Especially during the dramatic seasonal weather. An interesting thing that you should know is that during the day, the sunlight can raise the surface temperature of the roof, which ends up making the roof expand. However, keep in mind that at night the temperature drops significantly, which ends in a contraction of your home’s roofing materials. More significant expansions and contractions during seasonal changes can have an effect on the framing lumber, which means that your roof flashing material must withstand all these changes to prevent leaks and remain effective.

What are the different types of Roof Flashing?

The 5 types of roof flashing are Drip Edge, Valley Flashing, Vent Pipe Flashing, Step Flashing and Continuous Flashing.

What is the Purpose of Drip Edge?

Drip edge is a metal flashing or piece of aluminum that protects the edges of your roof. It is designed to prevent water from flowing into the fascia so that the underlying roofing components are protected. With that being said, included in the drip edge is a tiny metal projection that is angled away from the fascia. Because of its angled lip, any water coming down the roof would be obstructed from getting into the house. It’s like something of a middle-man between your shingles and your gutter.

Now as a homeowner, you may be questioning does drip edge prevent water damage? The answer is yes. The drip edge’s purpose is to prevent any water damage that can occur under the roofing shingles. Having water enter underneath your shingles can create temporary or even permanent staining. This can also lead to long-term roof deck deterioration, as well as damage to the fascia board.

When water sits on your roof for a long period of time, it can cause damage and the ends of your roof joists and trusses can be compromised. This could eventually lead to structural damage, or leaks getting into your home and causing interior damage becoming an extremely expensive repair.

What is Valley Flashing?

Valley Flashing protects the point on your roof where two slopes come together to form a valley. Valley Flashing is designed to channel run-off water down the roof into the gutter.

What is Vent Pipe Flashing?

This is the metal or rubber flashing around plumbing vent pipes on your roof. As these vent pipes penetrate through the roof, they are common places to find roof leaks. Over time the thin rubber collar on these boots starts to crack or will become damaged and there’s typically no additional seal to keep water from infiltrating around the vent pipe. The roofing cement holding them in place can also fail, creating another pathway for roof leaks.

What is Step Flashing for?

Step flashing protects the seam between a roof and a wall from water penetration and leaks. Small L-shape flashing pieces are woven into the shingles as you work your way up the roof. The flashing fastens the roof cladding into the wall cladding to help keep water out.

For more information on Step Flashing, please visit our step flashing page:

Everything you Need to Know about Step Flashing on Shingle Roofs

What is Continuous Flashing?

Continuous flashing is considered somewhat controversial as there can be issues with it. Most professional roofing companies would recommend the installation of step flashing instead. Continuous flashing was only fairly recently approved by the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA). L-shaped lengths of metal that are a few of inches longer than the shingle overlap are installed on top of each shingle adjacent to the sidewall. The flashing is then laced into each shingle course.

What is the Fascia on a Roof?

The fascia board is the panel mounted at the point where the roof meets the outer walls of the house and is often called the roofline. However, most professional roofing contractors refer to it by the name of the main board that carries the gutter, which is the fascia or fascias. The fascia board is the long, straight board that runs along the lower edge of the roof. The fascia is fixed directly to the lower ends of the roof trusses and usually does all the work of supporting the lower edge of the bottom row of tiles. Any guttering will be attached to the fascia boards.

Soffit and Fascia Boards

A soffit is a board that bridges the gap between a home’s siding and its roofline. It’s located under the horizontal fascia board, which holds the gutters. Soffits help provide ventilation for your attic space. The fascia is attached to the edge of the roof and stretches horizontally from one end of the rafters to the other.

The purpose of the fascia board is to prevent water and wind from damaging the interior of the house and the roof. It also supports the gutters and drainage pipes as well as to help enhance the appearance of the house. Failing to clean gutters on a regular basis can cause water to pool, which can damage the fascia and soffit.

Roof Insulation

Roof insulation can take many forms. The most commonly used material is felt or plastic sheeting; sometimes with a reflective surface. These materials are installed directly underneath the other roofing material. Synthetic foam batting or material from recycled paper products can also be positioned or sprayed into roofing cavities to enhance the roof’s insulating properties.

Without proper insulation or ventilation, roofs can begin to experience weather-related problems like ice forming near overhanging eaves. When the ice melts, it can be absorbed into roofing material, causing issues. Called ice dams, these pockets of ice form when heat escapes through the top of the roof, melting snow at the uppermost point. The water then begins to refreeze as it flows down the roof and collects under shingles and other low points. Over time, this can destabilize your shingles, add stress to the roof and destroy drainage systems and gutters.

How To Find Chimney Leaks

March 5, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

As a homeowner, you know that keeping the mechanisms of your house regularly maintenanced and well groomed is important. This is extremely true when it comes to your fireplace and chimney. As a chimney being part of your homes structure, if your chimney is damaged or leaking it can lead to some serious costly problems if it is left neglected. A regular maintenance and inspection from your trusted Albany roofers is a greater way to catch and fix any problems that may have occurred without your notice.

Now, you may be wondering what are the common chimney failure points, well the most common areas that chimneys fail are

Base Flashing (where the roofing and chimney meet)
Step flashing that is installed under the shingles and over the ice and water barrier.
Counter flashing
Within the brick veneer, stone veneer, and exterior insulation
Chimney cap
Vent stacks and flues

Is it normal for rain to come down the chimney?

If there is a sound of dripping coming from your chimney after a heavy rain storm or you notice moisture and stains on the wall there is an issue. Therefore, you must contact either a qualified roofing installer or a chimney repair specialist. Rainwater trickling into your fireplace is not normal. In fact, it is a telltale sign that there is an issue within your chimney system. The chimney is a much more complicated structure than most people realize. For this reason pinpointing the exact source of the leak can be challenging. Therefore, when it comes to detecting the source of the problem, contacting any professional roofers in your area, especially roofers in Albany is the best resort. Below are some signs to look for and the reasons why your chimney would be leaking.

Signs of water in your chimney

To fix a leaky chimney the first thing that should happen is finding where the problem is and how it happend. Some appear extremely obvious leaving puddles in your fireplace. Then there are the less obvious signs of chimney leaks which most likely is damaging your chimney. Visually inspect the bricks of your chimney. When you are visually inspecting the chimney, you should be looking for spalling. Spalling is when the surface of the brick is flaking away, it looks cracked, broken and is missing some or a lot of bricks. With that being said you would see some pieces of brick or stones on your roof. The reason that spalling happens in your chimney is because it sustained water or moisture damage. Too much moisture penetrating the mortar can result in spalling.

The other sign of water damage is efflorescence. When it comes to efflorescence it is a lot easier to spot because it results in white residue on your chimney bricks. The white residue is salt deposits that are caused by the migration of salt to the surface of your bricks. It also can occur due to rain, but it can also come from condensation forming within your chimney.

The reason that chimneys leak

If there is a pool of water or signs of water in your chimney, there could be a few things that are going wrong. The easiest way of detecting and repairing a leaking chimney is calling your local roofing contractor. If you feel safe on a ladder or have easy access to the chimney then these are some signs to look for yourself.

Cracked or torn chimney flashing. The flashing is the material that surrounds the part of your chimney that meets with the rooftop. Flashing is typically aluminum, sealed with tar, which bends over the sides of your chimney and shingles. Flashing keeps water from entering the cracks between your chimney and roof. If you see cracks or tears in your flashing, this could be allowing water to enter during rainstorms.
Deteriorating mortar. The mortar that holds the brick, stone, or stucco of your chimney together plays an important role in waterproofing the system. If your mortar is cracked, missing pieces, worn away, or otherwise damaged, it could be allowing water inside. Cracks in the mortar can occur naturally over time. Repairing mortar right away can prevent worse water damage from occurring.
Lack of chimney cap. The chimney cap is an accessory, not a necessity. However, buying a chimney cap that fits your chimney can prevent rain from falling straight down the chimney stack and into your fireplace. A chimney cover can prevent water leaks and other things such as falling leaves or birds from clogging your chimney.
Cracked chimney crown. The crown of your chimney is the surface as its very top, typically made of cement. If you see cracks in your chimney crown, this could be the source of water in your fireplace. Cracks can allow water to seep through the flue lining and enter the chimney, causing potential damage to your walls and ceiling. If caught soon enough, a professional can seal cracks instead of having to replace the crown entirely.
Issues with wood siding. Your home’s siding could affect the performance of your chimney and fireplace. If you have wood siding that’s warped, peeling away from your home, or missing, this can allow water to get behind the siding and leak into your chimney. Replacing or repairing your siding can prevent these types of water leaks.
Check the chimney cap. If you don’t have a chimney cap then you will need to get one. Without one, water can easily get into the firebox and drip down the walls of the flue liner at will causing your fireplace to drip and sometimes pool water. Damage to an existing chimney cap can also be a water issue and may need to be repaired or replaced if the damage is beyond repair. If you need to replace a cap get one that is rust resistant like a stainless chimney cap. Rusting caps are always a problem and will eventually break down and need to be replaced. If you get the right one the first time you should not have to deal with this issue again.

Is chimney waterproofing necessary?

Masonry chimneys are mainly built with bricks or stone bonded with mortar, a cement material, that forms a sturdy and practically impenetrable structure. But like most structures, water is a mortal enemy that can bring down a chimney like a falling deck of cards. However, keep in mind that all masonry chimney construction materials, except for stone, will end up suffering from accelerated deterioration, due to prolonged contact with water.

The reason is because bricks are composed of clay which is a soft and porous material. During the brick-making process a waterproof hard outer shell is backed in to prevent the bricks from soaking up water. However, if the material continues to be exposed to periods of different temperatures and wind, rain and snow, it can take a beating that will eventually begin to pierce the outer layer of the bricks. Without waterproofing the chimney tine holes will begin to form in the brick surface like a sponge that will gradually grow larger allowing water to penetrate the flue and damage other chimney components.

In addition, excessive exposure to moisture will also soften the mortar. Left untreated it will eventually melt away where you may notice gaps between the bricks or stone masonry that will also enable water leak inside the chimney. In extreme cases where chimneys have not been maintained for years it is not unusual to spot missing bricks and mortar. The chimney may also begin to lean as the foundation shifts due to its weight. This can also damage the structure of the home as the chimney pulls apart from flashing material attached to the roof.

As a result chimney masonry should be protected from exposure to water. That’s why many chimney professionals recommend homeowners apply waterproof sealer to protect the chimney from water damage. It’s important that the waterproof coating will wear over time and gradually lose its effectiveness. So for optimum performance, waterproofing should be reapplied every five years by your local roofer in Albany or any roofers in your area if you are not located in the Albany area.

Coated or painted chimneys

If you own a chimney and have had the copper flashing replaced you should reseal the existing chimney to prevent any further leakage. Hiring the wrong contractor, any old painter, or someone who uses a sealing product that is not meant for exterior masonry can cause more issues down the road if it counteracts with cement. Coating the chimney is meant to be used as a last resort and should only be used for sealing a leaking chimney and will not be of any help for structural support or loose bricks.

How do I stop my chimney from leaking?

When you have roof flashing around chimneys it can separate from the brick, therefore, allowing rainwater to leak inside the house. If your chimney flashing is leaking or loose here are some things you do. First thing is to clean any leaves or other debris out of the gap between the flashing chimney. You should use a chisel to remove any hardened roofing cement. Apply roofing cement behind the flashing and use masonry nails or screws to reattach the flashing tight against the chimney.

Last Thoughts!

Water in your chimney is not a normal thing, and it is certainly not anything that should be ignored. A leaky chimney can cause a lot of damage as mentioned above. To avoid any moisture damage that would cause your bricks to collapse into the chimney and clog it, contact your local roofers in Albany. If you’re not in the Albany area just simply search roofing companies near me and find the roofing contractor that will work on your chimney. No homeowners should have to deal with a clogged chimney that can further create a dangerous situation like carbon monoxide leaks in your home.

The Importance of Roof Flashing

January 7, 2020 by Infinite Roofing Leave a Comment

What is Roof Flashing?

Roof flashing provides protection for different areas of your roof and works in conjunction with your roofing material. Flashing is applied to roofing corners and valleys, as well as objects that jut out through your roof. So let’s talk about what exactly is roof flashing. How does it work? Where is it used? And the different roof flashing types such as counter flashing or step flashing.

Flashing is usually built out of metal, but it may contain steel, zinc, copper, aluminum, and even plastic or rubber. Flashing is used to keep roof components waterproof and prevent any damage. Without flashing, roof components such as the junctions between walls, dormers, or chimneys may come into contact with water which can saturate, leak, and damage the component or the structure of the house. In short, the roof flashing keeps the integrity of your home intact.

The way that flashing works is by connecting to various roofing components, and it can be overlapped and connected with one another in order to keep leaks from penetrating the roof or any of the structures on your roof. Flashing can be installed with nails, glue, and caulking in order to keep your roof waterproof.

Roof flashing installation occurs throughout your roof, including all of the following places:

Valleys and Joints – the joints found throughout your roof structure are more susceptible to penetration from water, as are roof valleys. Roof joints often aren’t watertight, and roof valleys collect more water than the rest of the roof. The roof flashing ensures that these critical areas of your roof are protected.

Roof Protrusions – If there’s anything jutting out of your roof, there should be flashing to protect it. If, for instance, you have cables that tie into a satellite that’s installed on your roof, flashing can protect the opening for the satellite cables free from water and prevent any future damage.

Drip Edging – Drip edging is flashing that is applied to the edges of roofs where there aren’t gutters. Think of drip edging as a specialized roof flashing at the edge of your roof that acts as guides to prevent water from getting behind gutters and ensure that all water is directed away from your roof.

Chimneys – Chimney flashing is necessary since water can run through and collect right at the base of a chimney. Chimney flashing should be installed at the base of your chimney to keep water from infiltrating the joint between your roof and your chimney.

Pipes – It’s likely that your roof has a few pipes that penetrate the surface of your home. For instance, you probably have drain-waste vents which keeps the pressure from building up in your plumbing. These pipes can compromise a waterproof roof if they are left unprotected. Specialized “pipe boots”, which work exactly as it sounds, can be placed around these pipes in order to protect your roof.

Kickouts – Kickout flashing is installed at the lowermost joint between your roof and your wall. The kickout flashing, also known as diverter flashing, diverts rainwater away from your wall and into your gutter to avoid any kind of saturation leaks in your roof.

If you have ever noticed that there are any leaks coming from around your chimney or vent, most likely your flashing was not installed correctly or is no longer sufficient. The main purpose of roof flashing is to protect your home from moisture & saturation. The flashing extends below your roofing and adjacent to siding to create a solid, weatherproofing seal on your home to protect you from the elements. It is also much more durable and lasts longer than trying to seal or caulk around the spaces. Before sheet products were available, builders had to use different methods to try to minimize water penetrations. These methods included angling roof shingles away from the joints, installing chimneys at the ridge, and building steps off to the sides of chimneys to divert water.

Furthermore, roof flashing is less susceptible to temperature variations. If and when the other components of your roof shift slightly, due to expansion from heat or ice, the flashing will still be able to act as a barrier from the elements. If you have any concerns or thoughts that you could be having leaks call your local roofing contractor.

Flashing also adds a clean, finished look to your roof. There are areas of roofs and exterior walls that are more susceptible to leaks and water damage such as the valleys or junctions where roof sections or walls meet. It is usually installed around structures that intersect with the roofline such as dormers, skylights, vents, and chimneys. Flashing comes in a variety of materials to accommodate the desired look for the consumer. Although you may see rubber or plastic flashing out in the market, metal flashing is the more prominent kind of flashing. One of the most common types of metal flashing material used is aluminum because it is usually the most cost-effective, durable, and weather-resistant.

Counter Flashing

For starters, counter flashing is only one type of flashing and is a technique that is used to help prevent moisture from penetrating into a home behind the vertical flange of a headwall or sidewall flashing. Pieces of metal are installed in order to prevent water from passing through a structure at its joint and ensure the water is directed away from the structure. Sometimes the material used, such as vinyl, for the exterior wall siding will be enough to serve as counter flashing itself and other times a separate element is installed. This is especially important in a structure where walls are either brick or stone. The counter flashing installation process is one of the most important parts of completing any roofing system. This type of flashing should be used in conjunction with base and step flashing, to help form a waterproof barrier.

The waterproof membrane is the first layer that is laid down before the shingles are installed, called the base flashing. This membrane not only covers the first layer of the roof but also gets turned up the nearby walls or chimneys to help with the flashing process of any joints or valleys between structures. Next, L-shaped pieces of metal, typically aluminum, are placed under each shingle that is installed next to a vertical wall. One side of the L-shaped aluminum flashing lays underneath the shingle while the other side attaches up against the side of the wall. This layer is called the step flashing.

In contrast to step flashing, the next layer is installed as a continuous strip. It is installed either behind or on top of the wall adjacent to the shingles and covers the step flashing. This final layer is called counter, cover or cap flashing and most commonly consists of aluminum or galvanized steel, but is also seen made with copper, tin or even plastic. Depending on the situation, a roof with step flashing installed could sufficient in itself when combined with vinyl siding that can double as counter flashing as long as the step flashing goes underneath it. Otherwise, counter flashing is a critical requirement for all roofs.

Counter Flashing Installation Methods

Counter flashing installation can be done using one of three techniques. The first is through-wall counter flashing, which secures the flashing material to the wall cavity and the exterior siding or masonry covers it. This type of installation is only plausible during a new construction project; otherwise, it typically proves to be cost-prohibitive.

The second technique used to install counter flashing is called surface-mount flashing. This technique attaches the flashing to the exterior siding by using a sealant, typically caulk, to seal the top of the surface-mount flashing. It’s the least expensive method of installation, however, the caulk seal will need to be monitored and eventually repaired or replaced over time because it will inevitably break down.

Reglet flashing is the compromise between through-wall and surface-mount flashing. A cut is made into the exterior masonry at a 90-degree angle and the flashing material is secured in the groove made by the 90-degree cut and bent down to run parallel the exterior masonry. Although it is a more expensive and invasive technique than the surface-mount flashing, reglet flashing does not need maintenance and will last much longer than a sealant. Because of this, reglet flashing is a more convenient, long-lasting option and is recommended over the surface-mounted flashing.

Counter Flashing at Brick Headwalls and Sidewalls

Installing headwall and sidewall flashing correctly becomes more time consuming when the exterior wall covering is brick or stone.“Time-consuming” can mean “more expensive”, which is why a lot of the counter flashing you’ll see at brick and stone walls will be incorrectly installed and will solely rely on some sort of sealant to prevent moisture intrusion. Sealant eventually dries, shrinks and cracks, leaving room for moisture intrusion and future water damage. This is why it is recommended to install regret flashing to ensure the most protection from moisture intrusion.

Step Flashing

Step flashing is an L-shaped piece of metal, typically aluminum or galvanized steel, and is used where a sloped roof intersects a vertical wall. Step flashing is interwoven with the shingles and act essentially as shingles with an unturned leg to allow a transition of the vertical drainage plane of the wall to the drainage plane of the roof. One side of the L-shaped step flashing is behind the vertical drainage plane or sealed to it with some sort of sealant and/or sheathing tape. The bottom leg of the step flashing is placed over the roof drainage plane. A critical component of the step flashing is the piece that is at the end of the slope of the roof is called the kickout flashing. This roof flashing directs water away from the adjoining wall and ensures that the step flashing is not collecting water on the surface of that wall.

Is Continuous Flashing Better Than Step Flashing?

Continuous flashing is sometimes seen where a roof meets a sidewall instead of step flashing, but in the long run, step flashing will do a better job of preventing water leaks.

Step flashing redirects the water back onto the shingle and away from valleys and joints. Even if one piece of step flashing fails, the next flashing and shingle below it start the process over again, providing a system to protect your roof from water damage. Continuous flashing against a sidewall is one way to install flashing on a roof, but it’s not the correct way. Some may think that a single piece of flashing would offer more protection than many pieces of step flashing, but it doesn’t work that way. Once even a small section of the continuous flashing fails, you’ll have a leak. Each additional rainstorm will add more water, and before you know it, you’ve got rotted wood and a roof inspector in your home.

Step flashing offers far better protection from leaks because even if a single piece of step flashing fails, the water just hits the next step of the flashing. The flashing then directs the water onto the shingle and the water drains down the roof.

Kickout Flashing

Kickout flashing which can also be called diverter flashing is a special type of flashing installed at the edge of the flashing that diverts rainwater away from the cladding and into the gutter. When your roofing contractor installs kickout flashing properly, the flashing will provide excellent protection against the penetration of water behind the exterior wall covering where the flashing ends. Kickout flashing is required regardless of the roofing material excluding brick or concrete block.

Yes, there can be several factors that can lead to rainwater intrusion, but a missing kickout flashing, in particular, often results in concentrated areas of water accumulation and potentially severe damage to exterior walls. If you happen to find saturation and possibly plant growth on the exterior siding of your home, you may have missing kickout flashing causing the water damage.

Apron Flashing

Apron flashing is the metal that covers the transition between a roof slope and a roof penetration such as a dormer or chimney. Having this flashing properly installed is crucial in protecting some of the most vulnerable areas of your roofing system.

Apron flashing is usually applied as part of the two-piece roofing system. The apron is the lower L shaped piece that replaces the normal step flashing, which covers the roofing material and extends up the vertical surface of the roof penetration. The second part of the system is something we’ve touched one, which is the counter flashing that extends parallel from the vertical surface and covers the vertical leg of the apron flashing.

The Importance

Now that you have had a breakdown of the important role that roof flashing plays when it comes to the protection of your roof, it is easy to see why it is needed on almost all roofing projects. Without roof flashing, our roofs would be much more susceptible to water damage, costing homeowners thousands of dollars in repair or replacement. So when having your next roof inspected or installed, be sure that your flashing is properly installed by your local roofing contractor to ensure the best protection for your roof.